Warmth of Kurdish people touches Middletown man

by Christopher Blazi

Sunday April 12, 2009, 2:57 AM

Utopia: an imaginary place where everything is perfect. Living in Kurdistan the past three months has been as close to utopia as possible. I am here training local Kurds how to teach English for an elementary school to be opened in September. I had no expectations coming to Iraq and the Middle East because I had no idea what to expect. I have been pleasantly surprised with life here.

Kurdistan is a semiautonomous region of northern Iraq. It is almost a completely different world than what you would expect basing it on images from television. Safety is no concern whatsoever. Security is everywhere, from armed guards to high school-age kids trying to earn a dinar (Iraqi money). When people see a foreigner, they are quick with a smile and practice any English they know. If they can, they say welcome and put their hands over their hearts, a symbolic way of showing respect.

I live in Duhok, an area somewhat close to the Turkish border, where the dialect of Badini is spoken.

The language is interesting and difficult to learn because translation books are impossible to find. However, I have managed to learn basic Badini, and the locals love the fact that I am making the effort. There are a few sounds that are not in the English language and provide a speed bump in the learning process. I make due with body language, a smile, and generally the results are acceptable. The adults I teach speak good English and surprise me with their skills. The mistakes made are only minor.

The landscape in Duhok is absolutely breathtaking. Mountains surround the city in a valley of beauty. Spring is supposedly the best time of year here and many other Kurds visit the city for its breathtaking views. There is a dam that offers a great place to picnic and relax with the family. Newroz, meaning "new day," is the holiday of the spring solstice and a three-day celebration. People usually buy some new clothes and enjoy the warm weather of spring.

Sand storms occur occasionally. Usually, you know when they are coming; the indicators are strong winds for a long amount of time and cloudy skies. Then, winds bringing sand from Saudi Arabia and Bahrain sweep the land, covering everything in a film of yellow. It is impossible to avoid the sand as it creeps through windows and doors.

I achieved a personal goal to touch the Kurdish flag high above the city, painted on the peak of a steep mountain. Other goals have all come slowly but surely. I am confident that I have given the local people a good impression of America, always showing respect and appreciation.

Most Kurds have a positive view of America anyway, as they were the people oppressed by Saddam. America helped them in the Gulf War, and they think fondly of our country. Many times I was offered the chance to stay and live here while a Kurd would take my passport and live in America. I politely declined the offer.

Muslims, Yezedis and Christians live together in Duhok. There has been no interreligious quarreling. In fact, different forms of religious beliefs seem to be tolerated, something not really known by Westerners. It is predominantly Muslim though, as I am reminded every morning at 5 a.m. by the call for prayer. It is common to see Muslims praying anywhere, in restaurants, parks, schools, etc.

Kurdistan has offered me a place to improve myself while learning about a relatively unknown part of the world. I am really happy for the opportunity and hope to continue taking full advantage of it. My welcome here has been nothing short of incredible. The people have blown me away with kindness. People making a 10th of my salary insist on paying for my meals.

Food is offered in mass quantities. Gestures of kindness and respect are used everywhere. Language is only a small barrier in the grand scheme of life in Kurdistan. My soul has been touched with the warmth of the Kurdish people.

Utopia is supposed to be an imaginary place. Duhok, Kurdistan is pushing the limits of reality and imagination thus far in my journey here.

Christopher Blazi grew up in Middletown, and has worked at Wordsworth Academy in Harrisburg and the United Methodist Home for Children in Mechanicsburg.